Monday, March 25, 2013

Blogging Revere - Project 2

I am going to excuse myself from this project, a crochet chain. I love crochet and woven chains and I have done many, many meters of them by now, which means I have drawn many more meters of wire down. I have done tapered chains, twisted chains, messy chains, open chains and, yes, the traditional chain as well.

So I will leave a few pictures up and move on to the next project, forged hoops. If anyone has any doubts or questions on this project, feel free to ask on the comments and I will do my best to answer.

A loose, open weave. I love the airy effect - perfect for spring

I am proud of this one! A very fine double weave which was very tightly drawn.

A tapered chain, oxidized.

And the promised traditional look!

PS - I have just been scolded for my lack of marketing sense. Yes, these chains are all available in both my website (www.beatrizfortes.com) and on Etsy (www.beatrizfortes.etsy.com). They can also be custom made in 22k gold.

Have I mentioned how bad I am at marketing my work? Yep, very bad.

Sunday, March 24, 2013

Blogging Revere - Project 1

The first project of the book is a forged bracelet, which presents a few problems:

- my bracelet mandrel is wood. It isn't even particularly hard wood (just light reshaping will dent it) and there is no way it will stand up to several rounds of forging
- the largest hole in my drawplate is 2.9mm

But I decided to go ahead any way by adapting the project for a forged ring, instead of a bracelet. This is the first project and covers several basic skills, including forming and soldering.

I started out with 2mm square wire (why square instead of round? Because I am a distracted airhead). The ring blank was formed and the 4 corners were marked with a file, to keep everything symmetrical. I also lightly marked the solder seam, in order to keep an eye on it as the ring was forged.


First round of forging - spreading the center of each side. Everything is looking pretty good.

Next, the edges were forged out, to create the square silhouette. I skipped photographing this step but here is the ring after filing. The original bangle kept the beautiful forged texture but it just wasn't working on such a small ring.

Filed and sanded to a matte finish, so that any mistakes will stand out. And. believe me, they do! I had to do several small fixes. Here, you can really see how my project is different from the one in the book. When I scaled it down, the forging proportions changed considerably. The transition from the center to the edges has to happen in a much smaller space and the curvature just isn't as clear. In the original bracelet, the center of each side is quite clearly curved, so the overall outline is still rather circular. My final ring is a square.


Overall, I am satisfied with this project. It was quick, fairly easy and, despite all my modifications, it is a nice piece. It is a pretty but quite delicate piece so I want to experiment with heavier wire (2.5mm first, then I might go even heavier) for a more substantial man's ring.

I was surprised by the size increase from the forging. I started out with a size 6 blank, expecting it to end up as a size 8 (a 10% increase in diameter). However, the final size is a full 10, giving it a 20% diameter increase. With thicker wire, requiring more forging, the increase should be even larger.

Friday, March 22, 2013

Blogging Revere

Alan Revere's "Professional Jewelry Making" is something of a legend for jewelry makers. It is comprehensive, didactic and leads students step by step up to advanced techniques. It was also out of print for many years. It was reedited in 2011, with new projects, new layout, even more pictures and, best of all, once more easily bought for a reasonable price (directly from Revere, from Amazon or your favourite bookseller).


After hesitating because of the price ($70 is expensive for a book!), a lost Amazon shipment and waiting for international delivery, I finally got my hands on a copy. It is gorgeous! The explanations are clear and thorough, there are plenty of pictures and the projects are interesting and varied.

My first plan was to read through the book and select the techniques I wanted to master (clasps, findings in general, etc). But once I started leafing through the pages, I changed my mind. I am going to work my way through the book, from beginning to end, with the focus of precision, good finish and as close to fine workmanship as I can get. And you, my dear readers, get to come along for the ride.

6 basic techniques, 10.000 tricks.

Friday, February 22, 2013

Big News!

The 2013 GBK Oscar Gift Lounge starts today and my Moonlight Sonata pendant will be on display.



I love how this pendant captures the light of the moon shimmering over the water.

And the lucky celebrities invited to the gift lounge will also receive this lovely sterling silver bracelet:


It has been a huge undertaking for me, as an artisan working alone on my pieces. The required 100 bracelets translates into close to 20 meters of handwoven chain. That is a lot of chain! To give you an idea, about a third of the way through, I draped myself with all the chain I had so far:



That is "only" around 6 meters of chain. I admit I love the look and I will, someday, make myself a necklace like that. After I get a brief rest, of course.

You can read all about the gift lounge here: http://www.onlineprnews.com/news/347667-1361290573-contemporary-jewelry-by-beatriz-fortes-showcases-moonlight-sonata-pendant-at-2013-academy-awards.html

Both piece are also available for sale on my site: http://www.beatrizfortes.com/collections/pendants-and-necklaces/products/moonlight-pendant-in-sterling-silver-and-opal and http://www.beatrizfortes.com/collections/all/products/double-woven-bracelet


Monday, May 21, 2012

Notan - the balance between light and dark


The concept of Notan comes to us from the Japanese, where it literally means Light-Dark. It is the balance between light (white) and dark (black) in a figure, where neither color dominates or is subordinate to the either. Each is defined by the other and the viewer can switch between looking at the black or white figure, without a clear right way.



The most familiar Notan image is the Ying-Yang symbol and the philosophy it symbolizes also fits perfectly with Notan: male and female, light and dark - they complement each other and lose meaning alone. If we remove the white from the symbol, what would we have left?

This vase shows a beautiful balance between the shape and the spaces left empty - 3D Notan


The concept of "switching" the views was not natural to me and I struggled with the concept until I remembered this figure. A simple representation of a cube, made from lines or wire, known as a Necker cube. Is it facing up or down? I love this image and I never had any problem switching between the views. Once I had this in mind, I was able to see both values in Notan with no difficulty.



The concept of Notan can also be used to analyse Western art - how the light and dark shapes in a painting, for example, interact. I find Van Gogh a great example of this. In this oil painting of a field, we can focus on the lighter paths or concentrate on the dark figures and fields.



From here, it is simple to extend the concept to sculpture (the solid spaces and the empty spaces of a piece), to architecture, to quilting, etc.

Notan in jewelry --  http://www.etsy.com/listing/66871604/lightweight-silver-earrings-in-a-diamond   


Friday, April 27, 2012

Circus of light and darkness, dreams and magic


I haven't mentioned books often in this blog, although they are as central to my life as my jewelry. My childhood revolved around books and my little apartment is lined with books. I find that books show me new worlds, beautiful ideas, the gossamer connections around us and the solid fantasies of what could or could never be.

I recently read Erin Morgenstern's The Night Circus. I was captivated by the dreamlike images and the weaving of magic and reality. While the characters are interesting and likable, it is the circus itself that captured me. A black and white circus that appears unannounced around the world, opening only at nightfall and lasting until morning. There, reality and magic combine, creating experiences that are hard to say if they were real or not.

The circus, however, is only a setting for a challenge between two magicians, who expand it with ever more amazing features, with delicate frost worlds, illusions, excitement and reflection. One works from a distance,
with careful models; the other is at the center of the circus, disguising her magic as mere illusions.

This is a book worth reading twice. The first time, you discover this beautiful, seductive world. You see a mystery unfold and are drawn in by the characters. The second reading shows how beautifully the story is constructed and how the main characters are often the only ones blind to the true meaning of what is happening. As the book unfolds, the true meaning of their challenge becomes clearer, as does their relationship with their mentors, circus members, each other and the Circus. Some of it is unexpected, some is heartwarming and many are heartbreaking.

The two competing magicians are wonderfully balanced. Marco is meticulous, careful and maintains careful control of his creations. He can also be cold, calculating and manipulative of the people around him. Celia is warm, collaborative and sparkling (perhaps not the best description, but sparkling is the word that comes to my mind when I think of her). However, she also tries to hold on to too much and won't let her creations have a life of their own.

One of the images that most struck me is quite simple and unobtrusive, in the middle of such glorious inventions. Marco is trying to explain the nature of the contest to a friend, even though he hardly understands it himself. He says it is like a balance and the contestants' achievements are placed on the plates and weighed against each other. Therefore, each one must keeping doing more and more, trying to outdo themselves and the other. At this point, the friend asks if the balance won't eventually break from the combined weight. Marco brushes this off, saying that she didn't understand it.

This image of always trying to surpass the other, until we break, seems to me to be at the center of our lives. We are always trying to be more, to do more, to be more that we do break. Instead of always competing, stop and enjoy this dream circus around all of us, called life.

Monday, April 2, 2012

Seasons are turning

The summer days are fading away. While I welcome the cooler days, I find myself missing the long days. It is getting dark too early for my taste.

While I enjoy a cool breeze, many of my online friends are talking about spring planting, flowers and the end of winter. It is a curious thing, living two different seasons at the same time, one here and another, vicariously, through the internet.


Living in a tropical country, seasons are not very clearly marked. While the temperature does vary from very hot in summer to reasonably cool (around 12 or 15C) in winter and the humidity goes from too much to too dry, there aren’t clear signs of each season. If I took pictures from my window throughout the year, it would be hard to tell the season.


I would love to live in a more temperate climate again, where each season is very clear and can be easily characterized. It adds a different rhythm to life. I find it hard to be inspired by seasons, when they are so indistinct locally.


Check out what my metalsmithing friends have to say about the seasons:
Steph Stargell http://stephstargell.com 
Lilian http://girllovesglitter.blogspot.com 
Pennee - All Wired Up Jewelry Designs http://allwiredupjewelrydesigns.blogspot.com 
nancycreations http://nancysjewelrydesigns.blogspot.com 
SerpentsDanceDesigns http://dancetothedoor.blogspot.com 
Autumn Bradley http://autumnbradley.blogspot.com 
Contemporary Jewelry by Beatriz Fortes http://cjbf.blogspot.com 
Jessica @ Abella Blue http://abellabluestudio.com/blog 
Sylvia Anderson http://sylviaanderson.blogspot.com 
Gloria http://gloria-hemlockhollow.blogspot.com 
Amy Estelle http://amyestellemetalworks.blogspot.com/2012/03/spring-has-sprung.html 
Esmeralda http://jewelry-by-silverblueberry.blogspot.se/2012/04/signs-of-spring.html